Thursday, 13 June 2013

sipping in the similkameen...


Thirty minutes from Penticton on the way back to Vancouver (or, four hours east of Vancouver on the way to Penticton), drivers pass through a winding, windy valley through which the Similkameen River flows. Long a popular stopping point for purchasing orchard-fresh fruits, the Similkameen Valley is arguably “the next big thing” in BC viticulture. Cellar doors are opening up in around the small towns of Keremeos and Cawston, and the quality of wines are steadily improving.

The source of the Similkameen’s success is due to a number of factors. First, it is about location, location, location. At Keremeos, Highway 3 splits into two roads: one branches off to Penticton, the other onward to Osooyos and the Crow’s Nest Pass.  This provides a perfect stopping off point for roadside refreshment after a long drive in the summer sun.

Next, the Similkameen shares a hot, dry climate similar to that of the South Okanagan. This means that the thicker-skinned, fuller-bodied grapes grown in Osoyoos and Oliver can also ripen relatively well in the Valley. However, being a narrow, east/west oriented valley means that the Similkameen suffers from much stronger winds than do the vineyards of the Okanagan. The lack of lakes and their moderating effects in the Similkameen also mean that extreme temperatures and frost pose a greater challenge.

Last and most important, there is more room to expand vineyard plantings in the Similkameen than in the near-capacity (and thus much more expensive) Okanagan. Vineyard plantings have grown 20% over the past few years, and now account for nearly 10% of plantings across the province. There are still plenty of cherry and apple trees in the Similkameen, so I suspect that the Okanagan track record of orchards-for-vineyards will take place here too.

Nevertheless, you can have all the right conditions for growing grapes, but you still need to create quality wines. Happy to say, the following are doing just that:

Seven Stones (www.sevenstones.ca) - On the Cawston side of the Similkameen Valley is Seven Stones. At just over a decade old, Seven Stones has achieved a popular following for their full-bodied reds; their 2006 Meritage was the wine that introduced me to the potential of the Similkameen. Their current release is the 2008 and has scored in the 90s, but also look for their Pinot Rose for summer sipping or the new release of the plummy-chocolatey Cabernet Franc.

Orofino (www.orofinovineyards.com) - No, "strawbale winery" does not mean the wines are aged in straw barrels; it's just a way of natural climate control for the inside of the winery. Which is a good thing, because I would hate to see their outstanding Riesling, their well-balanced Chardonnay, or their 100% Cabernet Sauvignon "Passion Pit" be harmed by flavours of hay. In just a few short years, Orofino is showing a real sense of Similkameen terroir, so look for better things to come.

Robin Ridge (www.robinridgewinery.com) - A small, family-run winery, Robin Ridge may not have the concentration and complexity of flavour of the above wineries, but good value wines can be found here, particularly with the lighter, fruitier styled Pinot Noir and Gamay.

Herder (www.herder.ca) - Arguably the first Similkameen winery to gain respect among critics and customers for producing high-quality wines from this newly-explored region. A limited portfolio focuses on quality production of just 5 wines. Demand is high, but the Three Sisters blend (Viognier/Pinot Gris/Chardonnay) and Merlot-based Josephine would have to be two of the most iconic wines from the Similkameen.

Clos du Soleil (www.closdusoleil.ca) - A relative newcomer to the Similkameen, Clos du Soleil is showing early promise of success, in part with Ann Sperling of Sperling Vineyards (kelowna and the great white north...) as consulting winemaker and viticulturalist. Success comes from a strong Cabernet Sauvignon programme (a rather difficult feat for such a cool climate); their refreshing Rose is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the Celestiale is a very good Bordeaux-blend for under $30.
 
Having sipped my way now through not just the Similkameen but at more than 70 wineries throughout the Okanagan, it is nice to be home. At least for now. Stay tuned for upcoming notes from an upcoming journey to Napa!

 

home stretch on the naramata stretch...

Winding down my month-long stay in Penticton, there are still several wineries on the winding road on the Naramata Bench that I had yet to explore. One day was spent up at the north-end around the village of Naramata itself (of vines big and small in naramata...) and another day on the Penticton-side of the Bench (stumbling distance...), but in these two days covered a dozen Naramata wineries; less than half of the 30 wineries on this 15km scenic stretch of road.

As mentioned in an earlier blog, 30 wineries plus 109 growers equals one intense concentration of boutique wineries. Located on the eastern shore of Lake Okanagan, the Naramata bench benefits from long summer afternoons of warm sunshine with the lake acting as an air conditioner to keep temperatures moderate. The same sun exposure keeps the vineyards relatively warm in the winter months as well, and the gentle slopes ensure that frost drains toward the lower altitudes, thus minimising frost damage. Silt, clay, and glacial rock deposits (called moraine) form the soil base of the Bench, and these each have an impact on viticulture. Relatively fertile silt means canopy management is essential for grape-growers, thus we see several vineyards planted with big vine canopy management (Geneva Double Curtains, Lyres, Scott Henry...). Clay, on the other and, has high water retention, which is helpful for an area that is starting to see issues arise with water rights as it expands. (140-square kilometres of water source, according my Okanagan Geology South, is pushed to its peak). Lastly, moraine soils are the connection to the first winery of the day:

Moraine Estate (www.morainewinery.com) - As above, this new addition to the Naramata is named for the soils of the area, and as a result has a fun geological theme to the small tasting room. Production is small but sourced entirely from their estate; the Chardonnay is subtly oaky, the Red Mountain Malbec/CabFranc shows that Malbec can do well in cooler climates, and the Cliffhanger series are good red and white blends that change according to the vintage.

Black Widow (www.blackwidowwinery.com) - A common theme of the Bench, small plots are farmed to low tonnage to ensure quality fruit and concentrated flavours. The result is small releases of a limited but quality-minded portfolio; look for the easy sipping Gewurztraminer or Schonberger and for the reds, the single-estate grown Hourglass (Merlot/CabSauv) speaks to the quality of Naramata terroir.

Howling Bluff (www.howlingbluff.ca) - Established in 2006, Howling Bluff is a family-run estate that sources its fruit from its own small plot of vineyards. Improving each year as the vines mature, their Sauvignon Blanc is among the better examples in the Okanagan, and their award-winning Sin Cera Meritage-blend is another great expression of reds grown in the Naramata.

Clean Slate (www.cleanslatewine.ca) - A unique destination in that Clean Slate combines the winemaking from Naramata-based Nichol and the cheese-making skills of Poplar Grove. Just two wines so far, a white and red blend, but solid winemaking will bring success to this small producer.

Hillside (www.hillsidewinery.ca) - One of the staples of the Naramata, Hillside has undergone renovations in recent years to update both the tasting room and the wines themselves. The Muscat Ottonel remains a standout among their aromatic whites, the Gewurztraminer a perfect choice for those wanting a little sweet (but not too much!), and their Gamay shows the potential of this varietal in BC.

D'Angelo (www.dangelowinery.ca) - With decades of experience in Ontario's Lake Erie North Shore wine region, Sal D'Angelo set up shop in the Naramata with 27 acres of property. Dedication to quality wine production means only the best 8 acres are planted with vines. A unique icewine programme that includes Tempranillo, the Merlot-based Sette Coppa blend is the closest Pomerol-styled wine I've come across in the province.

Ruby Blues (www.rubyblueswinery.com) - What happens when the chickens leave the coup? They set up shop across the street and re-create a quality wine programme. Like others on the bench, the aromatic whites are the most popular; the White Stiletto being the most popular by far.

Red Rooster (www.redroosterwinery.com) - As with Hillside, Red Rooster is a long-time favourite of the Naramata, but changes in the past few years mean the wines are not what they used to be. Nevertheless, Red Rooster remains an important attraction on the Bench and their wines will hopefully return to their previous heights.

La Frenz (www.lafrenzwinery.com) - When it comes to boutique BC wineries, La Frenz is arguably among the best. Recently awarded "Best Small Winery" at a prestigious California tasting, including 6 Gold medals and 4 Best in Class. Most grapes are sourced from 2 high-quality Naramata vineyards and one from the Golden Mile, but all of these are farmed using organic and bio-dynamic practices.  The wines are excellent across the board, but the Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc really stood out as something exceptional.

Long-story short, saving this stretch of the Naramata to the end provided me with more insight into the dynamics of BC viticulture...and with high expectations of how the wines would compete not just domestically but around the world. Overall, I would venture to say that, generally speaking, the wines of the Naramata are a style to be appreciated as they are.

Monday, 10 June 2013

lake country wines: more german than german...

The 50th parallel passes through the town of Winfield in the heart of Lake Country, about 30 minutes north of Kelowna. The significance of this is 50 degrees north or south of the equator marks the text book limit of viticulture, which therefore places Lake Country at the extreme northern limit of grape growing. Elsewhere in the world, only the vineyards of England and Germany are as far north as Lake Country (England benefits from the warming Gulf Stream).  When BC growers started to plant quality vitis vinifera grapes (i.e. European grapes as opposed to American or hybrid species), most looked to German varietals because of the shared latitude and cool continental climate. No doubt the stunning Alpine environment reminiscent of Austrian and Alto-Adige vineyards helped influence these decisions as well.

As growers became more familiar with the geographical and climatic differences within the Okanagan Valley, red wines took over plantings in the south (Merlot is, after all, the most widely planted grape in BC). However, the northern reaches of Lake country still remain a smorgasbord of German grapes that, as one visitor pointed out, are more common here than in Germany. While Riesling and Gewurztraminer are well-known throughout the wine world, Ehrenfelser is one such grape that has a cult-like following here but is not well-regarded back in Germany. The cool-climate Austrian reds Zweigelt and Blaufrankisch are gaining a following here too. Small, scattered plantings of Bacchus, Siegerrebe, Schonberger, and Rotberger will have you wearing lederhosen to your next tasting bar experience.

Arrowleaf (www.arrowleafcellars.ca) – owned and operated by the Swiss-born Zuppinger family, Arrowleaf is a young but well-respected boutique winery. They have won multiple national awards, with their slightly off-dry Pinot Gris leading the medal count. Their Zweigelt is also leader among others in the province, and their First Crush Series are a great everyday wine - and well-suited for anniversaries and Valentine's Day.

Alpine Vineyards at Gray Monk
Grey Monk (www.greymonk.com) – established by the Heiss family in 1972, Gray Monk is not just an original of Lake Country but indeed among the oldest in BC. With 100 acres of stunning property, Grey Monk is a destination winery complete with tasting bar and restaurant. The wine portfolio is Lake Country/German classic, balancing the popular Gewurztraminer and Ehrenfelser with unique-even-for-Germans Siegerrebe and a Rotberger rosé.

Ex Nihilo (www.exnihilovineyards.com) – a beautiful and modern Lake Country winery but most grapes come from the warmer south, especially for their excellent Meritage. The Sympathy for the Devil Icewine, however, is among the top and most sought-after in Canada.

50th Parallel (www.50thparallel.com) - Arguably Canada's northernmost winery, 50th parallel is a new venture with sleek design and small but quality-minded portfolio. With just four wines, the portfolio reflect both consumer trends and the northern terroir.

A couple of days in Kelowna complete, it is back down to a last run of the Naramata. From there, homeward bound through the up-and-coming Similkameen Valley.

Saturday, 8 June 2013

wines of the west bank...


Israel and the Biblical Lands are gaining worldwide attention for producing quality wines, of which most are located in the cooler altitudes of the Golan Heights. Lower altitude, extreme temperatures, and a hot-bed for political unrest, the West Bank is not as well suited for viticulture. There is, however, another West Bank that is well suited for grape-growing and winemaking, and that West Bank is right here in the Okanagan Valley.
 
Peaceful Vineyards of the West Bank
If any city in the world (let alone wine region) was in need of a name change, it was West Bank, BC. Mostly sub-urban sprawl and strip malls, what is now officially known as West Kelowna is also home to vineyards that, as with Kelowna across the lake, are suited to aromatic whites and a handful of cool-climate reds. Also found on these volcanic slopes are some of BC’s most iconic wineries as well as a growing number of boutique producers.

Mission Hill (www.missionhillwinery.com) – Say what you will about the Hill, but the success of the Okanagan can be attributed to that of Mission Hill. Winner of the World’s Best Chardonnay in a 1994 London competition, the international reputation of the Okanagan can be attributed to Mission Hill. Since then, it’s iconic, Mondavi-inspired hilltop winery and restaurant attract tens of thousands of visitors each year, and the wineries of the West Bank reap the benefits of these visits. Solid wines at various price points are offered from the everyday Five-Vineyards labels up to the top-tier Meritage Oculus; a recent tasting of a 2002 showed how long these wines can age.

Quail’s Gate (www.quailsgate.com) – Although it tends to sit in the shadow of Mission Hill, Quail’s Gate is another icon of the West Bank. The tiny tasting cottage was expanded to a large tasting room, shop, and restaurant complex to accommodate its growing reputation. Surprisingly, the Swiss grape Chasselas is Quail’s Gate largest selling wine, but the Old Vine Foch is also truly unique.

Rollingdale (www.rollingdale.ca) – A small producer that has a growing reputation for its organic wines. As with Quail’s Gate, look for their Marichel Foch for something different and good; recent releases that have seen no oak are showing great fruit flavours.

Mount Boucherie (www.mtboucherie.com) – The north may be all about aromatic whites, but Mount Boucherie shows that cool climate reds are also a source of interesting wines. Their Gamay is light and fruity, and the Austrian Blaufrankisch is one of the few in the province.

Volcanic Hills (www.volcanichillswinery.com) – A newcomer to the West Bank, Volcanic Hills is a throwback to my obsession with Okanagan geology; the soils around Kelowna have pockets of volcanic residue from long extinct eruptions. The reds are gaining a reputation.

Kalala (www.kalala.ca) – Another chapter in the grower-turned-vintner story of the Okanagan, the Sidhu family have branched out onto their own, taking all 90 acres of prime vineyard with them. Even more important, Kalala is entirely organic and are improving with each vintage. The weighty and aromatic Viognier is more Rhone-style than others in the region, and their Merlot-based Dostana label  is also very good.

 

Thursday, 6 June 2013

kelowna and the great white north...


Penticton may be located at the centre of all things vineyards in the Okanagan, but the title of main city belongs to Kelowna. An urban centre of nearly a quarter million, Kelowna is home of to most of the province’s oldest vineyards and wineries. Most of these are located within a few kilometres of the downtown, including some of the most iconic wineries that date back to pre-tasting room days of the late-60s/early-70s (which is old by Canadian wine industry standards).
 
Forward thinking wineries in this area decided to go against the grape by planting quality European grapes, a.k.a vitis vinifera, rather than rely on hybrid and domestic local species that were not suited to premium wine production. Here, vineyards are literally at the northern reaches of viticulture, roughly on the same latitude of German wine regions. As a result, where the desert sun and sand of Osoyoos are perfect for ripening Cabs and Syrah, the cool mountains and big lakes of Kelowna are the land of aromatic whites. 
Pinot Gris is the current king of whites in the area (and is now the most widely planted white in all the Okanagan), but Riesling is gaining international reputation as winemakers work with what the terroir provides, resulting in varying styles of dry to sweet. More important, Riesling this far north is also responsible for the highest quality icewines that are Canada's signature wine style. Gewurztraminer and Ehrenfelser are also of aromatic importance, but cool climate reds like Pinot Noir, Gamay, and the Austrian Zweigelt also do well in this climate. 
Kelowna itself is divided into 3 sub-regions: Kelowna, Lake Country, and West Kelowna. Approximately 2 dozens wineries are found in the area, but distance makes it difficult to do it all in one day. Hence, we start with a look at the wineries of Kelowna proper. Most of the wineries are located on hillsides south of the city, and often have access to among the oldest vines in BC.

Tantalus (www.tantalus.ca) – Tantalus focuses on a limited portfolio of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Riesling, arguably BC’s best with their Old Vines from vines more than 30 years old. A recent project is a sparkling Riesling made from these vines – yum!

Sperling (www.sperlingvineyards.com) – a country cottage doubles as a rustic tasting bar, and the wines are lovely. The Spritz is a nice, off-dry bubble and their first Pinot Noir is a sign of good things to come.

Summerhill (www.summerhill.bc.ca) – Pyramid-power defines Summerhill’s eclectic approach to winemaking, so it is no surprise this is a leader for organic and biodynamic viticulture. Cypes is also among the leaders of BC’s sparkling wine labels.

St. Hubertus (www.st-hubertus.bc.ca) -  Another Kelowna classic, recent changes to production have brought quality back to St. Hubertus. Their Gewurztraminer in particular showed among the best of my visits with a fuller body and aromatics much more along the lines of a traditional Alsatian.

Cedar Creek (www.cedarcreek.bc.ca) – One of the first wineries to work with vinifera grapes from the 1970s, Cedar Creek has streamlined their portfolio to meet consumer demands, but unique standouts such as a Reserve Malbec and Madeira-styled Pinot Blanc.

Calona/Sandhill (www.calonavineyards.ca) – BC’s first winery, Calona has suffered years of bad reputation but their Artist Series shows much improvement worth revisiting. The winery is also home to Sandhill, where the One, Two, and Three reds offer unique and high quality blends.

 

Friday, 31 May 2013

stumbling distance...

Driving across the southern reaches of the Okanagan is much more tiring than you may think (but with all those wineries, it is definitely worth the effort!). As a result, I needed some time to spend in my temporary backyard of Penticton. The majority of the Okanagan sub-regions are within an hour's drive of this city of 50,000, but there are also important wineries (and vineyards) within walking distance of downtown too. In an excuse to strengthen my injured leg, an uphill hike to the handful of wineries along Upper Bench Road.

These wineries have the fortune of being located on the fringes of town, making them accessible to anyone willing to walk up the steep road. There is a bit of country road involved, but it's not so bad as traffic is light and you are passing alongside vineyards and orchards. A walk in the country within the city is a nice balance indeed. 

If walking isn't your thing, then how about cycling? Penticton is home to Canada's largest Ironman competition each summer, so the helmets and spandex of those in training can be found throughout the city's streets and Starbucks. As a result, a bike lane runs on each side of Upper Bench Road, and the Kettle Valley Trail is another off-road option for the hiking and mountain biking crowd. A nice outdoor option to get around the below wineries of Penticton.

Poplar Grove (www.poplargrove.ca) - Last year, Poplar Grove moved from its Naramata Bench location to its new, modern winery on the edges of Penticton. As one of the first wineries you visit, Poplar Grove is prepared to welcome droves of visitors with stunning views and an excellent restaurant, The Vanilla Pod. The wines of Poplar Grove are of consistent high quality; Chardonnay in particular has a delicate balance of subtle oak flavours and their Legacy is among the top Meritage wines of the region.

Monster Vineyards (www.monstervineyards.com) - Around the corner from Poplar Grove (and even closer to town), Monster Vineyards started off as a "second label" of Poplar Grove before moving out on its own. As a result, the Ogo Pogo motifed Monster excels at offering easy-drinking wine styles at a reasonable price. The cherry-flavoured rose and the aromatic White Knuckle white blend both have a touch of residual sugar that make them perfect patio sipping wines.

Township 7 (www.township7.com) - As with the Black Sage's Church & State, Township 7 has vineyards and tasting rooms in both the Lower Mainland (Langley) and here in the Okanagan. However, the vast majority of their wines are made from Okanagan fruit, so their Penticton tasting room is worth the visit. The Syrah has just the right amount of white pepper, and the Gewurztraminer is typical for its type; a perfect choice for a sushi lunch on their patio (you can bring your own picnic!)

Misconduct (www.misconductwineco.com) - I'm happy to report that among the many wineries of my trip, Misconduct is among those that have seen the most improvement over the years. The quality now lives up to the attractive, Roaring Twenties-esque packaging. This is particularly true of their Suspect Series labels. White and Red blends are made each year, but the base of the blend changes according to which grapes had the best vintage. Current releases are Chenin Blanc-Viognier (Chenin being a rarity in the Okanagan), and Syrah-Malbec. A new restaurant also smells really good (but didn't have time to eat).

Upper Bench (www.upperbench.ca) - the furthest walk down the road, Upper Bench reflects the growing trend of matching good wines with artisanal cheeses. With wines of average quality and price, I would venture to say that cheesemaking takes the priority here. Nevertheless, the Zweigelt offers a bit more body and dark fruit character than others in the region, and who can go wrong with a cheese plate and bottle of wine on the patio? 

Five wineries is a relatively small effort for a day of tasting, but each provide enough of a nosh for a wine crawl along Upper Bench; and it is just a quick taxi ride home!

Tuesday, 28 May 2013

sun, sand, and sagebrush...

Hot on the heels of my geological exploration of the Golden Mile, my next round of Okanagan winery visits brought me all the way to the other side of the road: the Black Sage Bench. As with the Golden Mile, the Black Sage Bench is a 10km-ish stretch of land in the South Okanagan in and around the town of Oliver. As such, temperatures here are among the hottest in Canada, easily surpassing 30C in summer (40C+ is not uncommon either). There are no lakes to moderate temperatures in this part of the Okanagan, so "diurnal flux" (the difference between daytime highs and nighttime lows) is important to both ripen grapes and to cool them off. As a result, this is the heartland of growing those full-bodied, strong tannin reds that require so much heat to ripen.

However, the soils and aspect of the Black Sage are very different from the neighbouring Golden Mile, even if a mere kilometre or two separate these brothers-from-another-mother wine sub-regions. Where the gravel fans "rock" the Golden Mile, sandy dunes are the dominant feature of the Black Sage. The afore-mentioned "diurnal flux" is enhanced by the sandy soil; heat is reflected even more intensely during the day, but cools off rapidly at night. As for aspect, the Black Sage faces west, which means it absorbs more daytime-and-into-the-evening heat than do the vineyards on the Golden Mile. The result: the Black Sage Bench is the premium spot for ripening classics like Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, as well as the Bordeaux/Meritage supporters Malbec and Petit Verdot.

The vineyards of the Black Sage therefore play an important role in feeding the full-bodied red blends of wineries a bit further north, such as Summerland and Naramata discussed earlier. These wineries may own vineyards up north, but some will own land or contract with growers located further south to secure a steady supply of rich red grapes. Nevertheless, there are a handful of great estates located along the main artery of the Black Sage Bench, the aptly named Black Sage Road.

Black Sage Vineyards at Burrowing Owl
Burrowing Owl (www.bovwine.ca) - arguably one of the Okanagan's most iconic wineries, Burrowing Owl is at the very southern end of the Black Sage. A slow and steady release of their wines have created an image of scarcity, so it is always a treat to have your hands on a bottle of the Owl. Syrah, Merlot, and Meritage are excellent whites, but oddly enough for this far south it is their Pinot Gris that is most coveted. Visiting on World Chardonnay Day, however, revealed that when treated right not just at the Owl but anywhere in the Okanagan, Chardonnay can age to silky wonders in BC.

Desert Hills (www.deserthills.ca) - Aptly named given its location on sandy hills in a certifiable desert, Desert Hills excels with its multi-award winning Syrah and Meritage reds. These are full-bodied, rich, and spicy reds that will defy anyone who thinks BC cannot do warm-climate viticulture. The whites, however, do not live up to the same standard. On the other hand, the Gamay is a unique expression for the grape of Beaujolais with its rich flavour and texture.

Black Hills (www.blackhillswinery.com) - A great example of how success can be achieved with a focussed portfolio. Only 6 wines are produced, each of which are to of benchmark quality for BC (and, pun intended, Black Sage benchmark quality). Nota Bene is their iconic Meritage that is released after within 2 years of harvest, yet still capable of longer-term aging. Most unique is their Carmenere; the only single-varietal Carmenere (that I'm aware of) outside Chile. Not as chocolate-minty as the Chileans, but still very good. Syrah, Chardonnay, Viognier, and the Sem-Sauv Alibi round out the portfolio, each made to excellent quality.

Church & State (www.churchandstatewines.com) - Along with Naramata's Township 7, Church & State is one of the few wineries to have vineyards and cellar doors both in the Okanagan and in the Lower Mainland. In the case of Church & State, their Okanagan winery is located at Coyote Bowl on the Black Sage. This location lends it's name to a series of structured, ageable reds (the Cabernet Sauvignon is among the best in BC) as well as a very Burundian Chardonnay. The Church Mouse series is also a great value.
So many choices on the Black Sage!
Stoneboat (www.stoneboatvineyards.com) -  A boutique producer, Stoneboat excels at small production of a limited portfolio of wines.
The slightly off-dry Pinot Gris is excellent as is their Pinot Noir, but two unique wines really stand out. First, there is the meaty and savoury Pinotage, which has not a hint of the barnyard-gaminess of the South African classics. Second, there is the dessert wine Verglas; an ice wine that has also seen noble rot, a rare occurrence in the wine world and only produced in select years. Amazing as the icewines are in BC, Verglas stands out at the top for me.

Le Vieux Pin (www.levieuxpin.ca) - Sister winery to Osoyoos' La Stella, Le Vieux Pin concentrates on Rhone varietals; the Syrah in particular is very good. Merlot is also made here, but it is their Vaila Rose that stands out amongst its Okanagan peers; bone dry, pale coloured, and delicate flavours of dried strawberries, pink grapefruit, and rosemary are a great reflection of any Rhone rose.

Quinta Ferreira (www.quintaferreira.com) - Quinta Ferreira is the perfect reflection of how the Okanagan wine industry has developed. The Ferreira family had orchards on their land for 20 years before converting to vines in the late 90s. These grapes once supplied bigger wineries before the Ferreira's moved out onto their own label. A lovely family, look for their Viognier, Rose, and Merlot to best reflect their labour of love.

River Stone (www.riverstoneestatewinery.com) - As with Covert Farms being just outside of the Golden Mile, so too is River Stone just on the outskirts of the heart of the Black Sage Bench. Just north of Oliver, the 9.5 acres of River Stone benefit from the west-facing slopes, but the soil is a little less sandy than on the Bench itself. A new winery, they are off to a good start with their Cabernet programme (both Franc and Sauv), as well as their Meritage "Cornerstone." The Malbec Rose is also freshly unique.

And yes, the Black Sage Bench is named so because of the type of sagebrush that grows in the area. As a result, the red wines of this region tend to have a hint of savoury notes akin to the garrigue of Southern France (if but much more restrained). Sun, sand, and sagebrush; you can't go wrong with that combination!