what rocks in the golden mile...

I treated my inner wine nerd to a book as dry as any Chablis: Okanagan Geology South, Geological Highlights of the South Okanagan. The title itself is thrilling to you I'm sure, and I know you are all going to rush out and get a copy of your own (it includes "roadside geological maps"!), but it does speak to a very important aspect of the wine industry: how geological structures result in various soil compositions which, in turn, impact vineyards and the grapes they grow.

According to the OGS:GHSO, the South Okanagan can be split into 3 general geological structures, two of which are the most important in terms of viticulture: South Okanagan Lake Region (Peachland through to Okanagan Falls) where glaciers once covered the land leaving behind glacial lake sediment; and the Okanagan River Region (Okanagan Falls to Osoyoos), which is dominated by sand and gravel deposits from millennia of flowing rivers (a.k.a. fluvial and alluvial soils) from the melting glaciers. Armed with my handy-dandy geologically grandy OGS:GHSO, I explored the gravel and sandy Golden Mile sub-region.

Gravel Fans Rockin' it at Tinhorn Creek

The Golden Mile is about a 6-mile stretch of wineries running from the town of Oliver south to the northern shores of Lake Osoyoos. Specifically, it is the land on the western side of the valley as opposed to the Black Sage which occupies the eastern flank. Even more specifically, as pointed out by my trusted OGS:GHSO, the terroir of the Golden Mile is based on "gravel fans." Though the authors of my book may be fans of gravel themselves, this term refers to "an accumulation of gravel sediments where fast flowing mountain rivers meet flatter land." The impact of these fans on viticulture is fast draining soils that are high above the water table (grapes don't like too much moisture), and the ability to trap warmth through the day. Facing east,  this means the Golden Mile is not as exposed to the intense afternoon sun a much as the eastern, and this trapped warmth enables slower development of flavours.

Despite my developing interest in all things geological, I still remain a fan of wines, so here is a list of the Golden Mile wineries I visited:

Tinhorn Creek (www.tinhorn.com) - With the soils pictured above, Tinhorn Creek has long been one of my favourite wineries. Most of their wines are from their estate on the Golden Mile (the Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris in particular are excellent), but some reds for their Oldfield Series (the Syrah is my fav) are sourced from across the way on the Black Sage. The Cabernet Franc in particular has limited production for its big following, but definitely check out the saignee-method Rose; one of the best in BC.

Hester Creek (www.hestercreek.com) - Yes, there is a creek called Hester (as with Tinhorn); after all, the gravel fans are the result of these river systems big and small.  Their Character series white and reds are great value, easy drinking wines, and definitely check out the unique old-vine Trebbiano; the only Trebbiano in BC. Reserve series Cab-Franc and Merlot are also very good with smokey tones perfect for sausuages and ham. Dinner Choice: Pan-seared chicken in pear-cider reduction paired with the Hester Creek Pinot Gris (great pear notes make it a perfect "pair").

More Golden Mile Terroir:

Hester Creek from Gehringer Bros.



Gehringer Brothers (www.gehringerwines.ca) - Having owned vineyards for more than 30 years, Gehringer is a quiet little winery that offers excellent value, especially with their white programme. Rieslings from dry to medium-dry are there to satisfy your palate (be it dry to sweet), the Desert Sun a perfect patio sipper, and do try their Schonberger-blend; only a few wineries have Schonberger plantings, all of which come from the originals smuggled into the province by Gehringer several decades ago.

Inniskillin - (www.inniskillin.com) - Arguably on of Canada's most famous wine brands, Inniskillin has production in both Ontario and BC. While the Niagara-based winery is a Mecca for visitors, the Okanagan sibling is surprisingly discreet. Although located in the Golden Mile, wines are sourced from throughout the Valley. Friendly staff and humble atmosphere still make it worth a visit.

Road 13 (www.road13vineyards.com) - The winery-formerly-known-as-Golden Mile Cellars, the name change to Road 13 is indicative of BC's move toward protecting sub-regional appellations, akin to how the words Chablis, Champagne, or Port can only apply to specific areas. Nevertheless, Road 13 is a pioneer in understanding the unique terroir of the Golden Mile Bench, as summaries in their slogan "it's all about the dirt." (I suppose "the gravel" is more appropriate...). A range of solid wines are produced here, most popular of which is the Honest John's blends. However, a visit to Road 13 must include a purchase or two of their excellent Chenin Blanc; not a common varietal in BC, let alone the even more rare sparkling Chenin.

Covert Farms (www.covertfarms.ca) - When Dunham split from Froese, Dunham & Froese changed its name to Covert Farms. Located north of Oliver, Covert Farms is not technically not part of the 6-mile Golden Mile, but the east-facing gravel fans provide similar structure as the wineries mentioned above. A huge property that grows for many large BC producers, their organic and bio-dynamic plots are used for the Covert Farm labels. A new addition worth mentioning is their completely gluten-free kitchen; a perfect choice for a picnic lunch and glass of wine.

Thanks to my Okanagan Geology South text, I  was able to literally dig below the surface of the Golden Mile to understand its unique terroir and, in turn, its wines. Now that the Golden Mile has been addressed, the next step is to try the other side of the Valley, the Black Sage Bench.

filling your boots in osoyoos...

When you take your WSET certification courses (naturally, with www.finevintageltd.com!), you learn that the latitude threshold for viticulture is between 30- and 50-degrees north or south of the equator. This is where the sun's rays are at their optimum for grape growing, and average temperatures are, like a proverbial bowl of porridge, not too hot, not too cold, but juuuust right.  As a country that by and large fits outside this latitudinal limit, it is not too much a surprise that in my travels most people are intrigued to find out wine is made in Canada. Granted the Great Lake-tempered wine regions of Ontario (Niagara, Prince Edward County) fit within the band, here in BC we are at the very fringe of grape growing; a fringe that begins its end in Osoyoos.

A small town of about 5,000, Osoyoos swells in both tourists and temperatures when summer hits. The namesake lake provides a cool dip and moderating temperatures - even if these temperatures often exceed 40C. Not the weather you'd expect for Canada, but Osoyoos defines how full-bodied reds can ripen successfully this side of the 49th parallel (and quite literally).

While the northern reaches of the Okanagan explored thus far are generally suited for whites and cool-climate reds, the soaring temperatures of the south are well suited to reds that require heat to ripen effectively. A winery may be based in the Naramata or Summerland, but quite often their reds are sourced from growers in the south. Despite the large plantings in the Osoyoos area, there are only four wineries in the area:

La Stella (www.lastella.ca) - Delightfully French in her demeanour, winemaker Severine Pinte crafts beautiful wines in an Italian style at the lakeside La Stella. The elegant Vivace Pinot Grigio shows that this grape is more than just patio sipping, the intriguing Fortissimo has a splash of BC-rare Sangiovese, and the Maestoso Merlot is among the best Merlots in Canada.

Nk'Mip (www.nkmipcellars.ca) - As North America's first entirely First Nations-owned winery, a visit to Nk'mip is a must while in Osoyoos. The wines are consistent, but Nk'Mip is an resort unto itself with a hotel, golf course, and information centre. Well worth a visit if just to experience it.

Moon Curser (www.mooncurser.com) - It's hard to choose best among equals, but the wines of the-winery-formerly-known-as-Twisted Tree are among my favourite in BC. Locally sourced in Osoyoos, the whites are Rhone reminiscent and the Syrah is (sorry everyone else) my favourite in the province. Also unique for someone just back from Uruguay is the Tannat-based "Dark of the Night." Plus, the view from the hillside winery of Osoyoos is amazing. Dinner Choice: paired this Tannat-Merlot blend with a good old fashioned spaghetti and meatballs. Sufficient acidity in the wine balanced the homemade sauce, while the tannins were perfect for the hand-rolled balls like-a mamma.

Young & Wyse (www.youngandwysewine.com) - I may sound like a French region yet again declaring another vintage of the century, but Young & Wyse is also a favourite BC producer. Considered a "black sheep of the family," Stephen Wyse set out with partner Michelle Young to create rich, full-bodied wines; the Merlot and Cab-Sauv are great, and check out their rare-to-BC Zinfandel; much less jammy and a little lighter in body than the heady stuff from California. Another fun fact? Young & Wyse is arguably BC's southernmost winery: the border is just down the street.

Which brings me to the real reason for my trip down to Osoyoos: yes, the wineries and their great and wines are worth the trip, but so is the attraction of cheap gas and groceries in Oroville. Interesting to note is that as important as the Osoyoos region is to the BC wine industry, very little goes on just across the line. In my opinion then, fill the tank with gas but when filling up on groceries, be sure to leave plenty of trunk space for filling up with the wines of our Deep South.

of vines big and small in the naramata...

Day 3 of my travels around the Okanagan took me to the Naramata end of the aptly named Naramata Bench. Arguably one of the most scenic stretches of vineyards in the world, the Naramata Bench sits atop hundred-metre high cliffs on the eastern shore of Lake Okanagan (immediately opposite the previously discusses Summerland sub-region). As with other sub-regions in the North Okanagan, whites are the norm here, but the prolonged exposure to long summer afternoon sunshine enables ripening of warmer climate reds such as Cabernet Franc, Syrah, and of course, the ubiquitous Merlot. Furthermore, the Naramata is home to some of BCs oldest vineyard plantings, some of which feature vines that, like me, are approaching their 40th year much sooner than one would expect.

With this tradition in viticulture, the Naramata boasts a rich concentration of boutique wineries. More than 30 wineries line a the often crowded 15km, two-laned road from the outskirts of Penticton. Couple this with 109 different growers and you end up with one of the smallest acreage ratios in the province (approx. 4 acres/vineyard).  As a result, the Naramata is home to what is arguably the strongest movement towards sub-regional terroir; the French term that encompasses all the elements that define a sense of place. If the fruit fits, wear it on the label.

On an interesting side note, today's Naramata visit ended up being all about the various methods used to position grape vines. In other words, much of the conversation could be scripted for a Sideways sequel. While traveling with a relative wine novice, here I am asking the car to pull over so I could take photos of the Smart-Dyson VSP, complimenting a vineyard manager on the move from the Geneva Double Curtain to a more reasonable Scott-Henry system, or just look at the beautiful Lyre. (FYI: these are actual names for managing vines and not scored moves at a World Cup of Figure Skating). Each of these systems are referred to as "Big Vines"; a way of controlling volume in fertile soils while still maximizing yields without sacrificing quality grapes.

As with the previous two days, four hours is just enough time to get to 6 wineries. Limiting the day to the wineries around the end-of-the-road village of Naramata itself, here are my results:

Therapy Vineyards (www.therapyvineyards.com) - I'm sure they've heard it before, but everyone could do with a bit of Therapy now and then. A common story among wineries in the Okanagan, Therapy grew from supplying someone else's wines to creating their own. New this year is their sparkling programme, called "Fizzio-therapy;" a trend toward bubbles that seems to be shared among other Okanagan producers. A rare treat was their 2007 Chardonnay; a chance to see that time can do wonders to both the soul and to wine. (And check out their Smart-Dyson Cabernet Vines!)

Kettle Valley (www.kettlevalleywinery.com) - A Naramata classic, Kettle Valley is now the oldest family-operated winery in the region (and one of the few remaining Double Geneva Curtain Syrah vines too). For more than 20 years, Bob and Colleen Ferguson have produced wines of consistent quality that reflect the terroir of the Naramata; the pink-hued Pinot Gris and rare Malbec are just such features. Furthermore, there is nothing wrong with selecting grapes from the South Okanagan; Kettle Valley is working towards creating a label that identifies which wines are 100% Naramata and those sourced from elsewhere.

Nichol (www.nicholvineyard.com) - Not the Nichol of years gone by, Ross Hackworth and Matt Sherlock have worked to revive this truly unique winery. If the grapes don't come from their 5.5 acre property, then chances are they are grown no further than a few hundred metres away. Pink-hued Pinot Gris is found here too, but also look for the Northern Rhone-esque Syrah and Chinon-ois Cabernet Franc; both excellent reds that are 100% Naramata (and, for the record, grown on Lyre or Smart Dyson vines).  Well and truly the best example of terroir as it relates to the Naramata.

Lang Vineyards (www.langvineyards.ca) - Another Naramata staple, the Lang family is still involved in the winemaking and cellar door aspects of the business. Successful whites lean toward the aromatic side, but the highlight of the reds are the multi-decade old Marechal Foch vines. 2011 is young and a little on the thin side, so look for the 2010 and 2009 for fuller-bodied, more classic expressions of this unique grape. Also pairs well with chocolate (but not sure of its trellising system).

Lake Okanagan from Lake Breeze

Lake Breeze (www.lakebreeze.ca) - Many wineries in the Okanagan boast great views (and rightfully so), but I would have to put Lake Breeze at the top of the list. Vineyards slope down to the edge of the bluffs, offering panoramic views of grapes, lakes, and mountains (of varying trellising techniques). The Pinot Blanc is iconic, and the traditional method Zephyr is a hard-to-find treat. I should also note that at Lake Breeze we experienced the impact of micro-climate; a heavy downpour rolled in and out so quickly that (quite literally) a friend had to race to the washroom in the rain and came out to bright sunshine.

Marichel (www.marichel.ca) - Adjacent to Lake Breeze, the views from Marichel are also stunning, but both wines and tasting room are significantly more low-key. Owners Elisabeth and Richard produce a small selection of Viognier and Syrah, all of which is farmed from their 15-acre lot. Here where the land levels off is the true "Bench;" the granite schist of the higher slopes yield to sandier/limestone soils and, much like Nichol, Marichel is adamant about using only local grapes (in this case, all estate grown) for a true Naramata expression.

Another day done and brain full of many ways to trellis a vine. A return to the Bench is in the works, but the next destination is to Osoyoos in the "deep south" of the Okanagan.

wine flows in okanagan falls...

Day Two of exploring the wineries of the Okanagan Valley brought me to the sub-region of Okanagan Falls. (It's more of a "rough current" than an actual "falls" by the town, but that's another story). A few errands at a friend's cabin served as the perfect cover; we're in the area, so why not make the most of our gas? (Which, by the way, shot up 10-cents a litre yesterday just an hour or so after filling the tank; summer means sunshine and tourist price-gauging, I suppose).

The Okanagan Falls Winery Association (OFWA - www.ofwa.com) has done a great job of late promoting the wineries of the sub-region, dubbed "the Heart of Wine Country." Situated where the string of lakes that moderate the North Okanagan end, giving way to the hot desert climate of the South Okanagan, OK Falls is indeed at the very centre where wine styles bridge these two distinct BC regions. Where glaciers up to 3km thick once sat, varied soils and slopes now hold more than 100 acres of prime vineyard land at the southern tip of Lake Skaha.

As with Summerland, most of the wineries of OK Falls are concentrated within a few kilometres of the small lakeside town on what was once referred to as Corkscrew Drive. Slightly further afield, wineries along the eastern shore of Lake Skaha and in the sleepy summer town of Kaleden are also a part of the Okanagan Falls sub-region.  With about a dozen wineries in the area, a few hours between early morning errands and picking up kids from school is not enough to fully take in what is available here. Nonetheless, 9 wineries is still a fair go I think, and below are my findings for the day:

Kraze Legz (www.krazelegz.com) - an intriguing find in Kaleden, I would have to say this was my pleasant surprise of the day. Owners Jerry and Sue look after all details from vine to wine on their 9-acre property. Production is small, but the quality and potential is there with their Pinot Blanc, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. That, and I have to admit I'm a bit of a sucker for clever marketing that revolves around a prohibition-era theme.

See Ya Later Ranch (www.sylranch.com) - The winery formerly known as Hawthorne formerly known as La Compte has long been a favourite of visitors to Okanagan Falls. High in the hills above the town, the wines here are fresh and fruity, but today their brut stood out as something special.

Blue Mountain Vineyards in Okanagan Falls

Blue Mountain (www.bluemountainwinery.com) - Blue Mountain has the fortune of having for years a cult reputation...and the wines to back up this reputation. While I may not have taken note of their exact acreage (40-ish?), it is sufficient enough to ensure that their wines are 100% Estate fruit; a sign of control from vine to wine. Their Brut is among the best traditional methods in Canada, their Pinot Blanc a benchmark of how this grape can be BCs signature on the world scene, and the newest addition is their Sauvignon Blanc; a more restrained style than in New Zealand, and better than most attempts in the Okanagan. Best thing is that Blue Mountain is now open for visitors!

Noble Ridge (www.nobleridge.com) - A fantastic find for the wine geek in you, the first thing that impressed me was the Geneva Double Curtain and modified Scott-Henry trellising systems when you drive up to the property. (These may sound like figure-skating moves, but are indeed ways of growing grapes, and are not common in the Okanagan). That aside, the Burgundian-styled wines are fantastic, and the hospitality also top-drawer; Tamsin is just weeks away from her WSET Diploma, and David could easily ace any exam.

Stag's Hollow (www.stagshollowwinery.com) - Without wanting to offend the others on the list, Stag's Hollow has long been one of my favourite BC wineries. Owners Larry and Linda work in perfect tandem with winemaker Dwight to create wines that are both commercially successful and unique in their own rights. Today's visit was highlighted with a look at the brand new bottling of the 2010 Tempranillo (a first for the Okanagan) as well as a tank sample of the 2011 Syrah. Long standing favourites of Syrah, Syrah Rose, and Heritage Block were also sampled to great success.

Wild Goose (www.wildgoosewinery.com) - Yet another fan favourite, Wild Goose last year expanded their tasting facilities to accommodate their ever-growing acclaim. The Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, and Autumn Gold were as great as always, but you shouldn't miss out on the Mystic River Pinot Blanc either; a benchmark standard for Okanagan Pinot Blancs. It is also worth noting that we have Wild Goose to thank for spearheading the OFWA, an effort that is finally seeing fruition.

Tangled Vines (www.tangledvines.com) - Scores well with friendly service, but if you can't say anything nice about the wines, you shouldn't say anything at all. (Sampling a 2009 rose at the winery? Seriously?)

Meyer Family Vineyard (www.mfvwines.com) - Specialists in Burgundians (with a touch of Gewurz for good luck), going in to Meyer I had high expectations....which were exceeded. Unique among samplings, each wine was paired with an unexpected food item. No cheese and crackers here; try Gingersnaps with Gewurztraminer (my highlight!), Oaked Chardonnay with Blueberries (turns out I'm not the only one to dream this up), and Pinot Noir with dark chocolate? Each a pleasant surprise and well worth the visit.

Blasted Church (www.blastedchurch.com) - A classic example of the successes that can come when solid winemaking meets innovative marketing. Blasted Church is an icon of BC branding with clever puns on religious themes. For example, their Chardonnay isn't just a Chardonnay; it's an Unorthodox Chardonnay (which, indeed, includes an aromatic Chardonnay Musque crossing). Another favourite is the red blend Big Bang Theory; they have the rights since it was a label before the show. And with so many winery email addresses of info@, you can't help but wonder what is afoot at a winery where you are intrigued@blastedchurch.com.

With family fun and bikers expected to descend on OK Falls this weekend for an annual festival, the remaining wineries of the area will have to wait until next week.  In the meantime, a glass of the Stag's Hollow GVM (Grenache-Viognier-Marsanne) with stuffed green peppers will tide me over until the next adventure.

nachos and ehrenfelser in the land of summer...

A simple but flavourful dinner is sometimes best paired with a simple but flavourful wine. In today's case, I just finished homemade nachos with a glass (ok, maybe two) of Ehrenfelser. Nachos are a good way to clear the fridge of a variety of leftovers (chicken, beef, sour cream, tomatoes, cilantro... anything goes so long as it is oven-baked and over corn chips), but Ehrenfelser is a nice treat to the palate. A crossing of German grapes Riesling and Silvaner, Ehrenfelser is a unique grape that does better here in BC than in its homeland. It may not reach the heights of ageworthy Rieslings, but the youthful stonefruit characters, crisp acidity, and light body are just right for when summer sunshine strikes the patio.

For tonight's meal, I went with the Greata Ranch Ehrenfelser. A good expression of the grape in its own right, my choice stems primarily from a day spent visiting the wineries of Summerland, BC. Blessed with the opportunity to spend a month in the heart of BC wine country, this is the first of a series of blogs about visits to the extraordinary sub-regions that make up the Okanagan Valley.

With temperatures exceeding 30C under cloudless skies, the wineries of Summerland seemed the most appropriate place to start this journey of exploration. Perched on the western shores of Lake Okanagan, Summerland is a quaint town ideally located on the main road from Penticton to Kelowna. For this reason, the Bottleneck Drive Wine Route (www.bottleneckdrive.com) is a new initiative to attract visitors to concentrate their sips and spits to one local area rather than spreading out along the 100km stretch that is the Okanagan Valley.

Despite the focus on just one sub-region, you'd be surprised how much time can be spent visiting a limited area such as Summerland. What was intended to be a 90 minute whip-around the wineries for quick tastes ended up a 4-hour journey into the tasting rooms and cellars of 6 local wineries; just half of what Summerland has to offer. My apologies for those I did not get a chance to see, but a summary of today's tastings include:

Greata Ranch (www.greataranch.com) - At the northern end of the Bottleneck Drive, Greata Ranch is affiliated with Kelowna's Cedar Creek. Sourcing grapes from their own vineyards as well as contracted growers further south, Greata Ranch performs better with their aromatic whites and Pinot Noir; after all, their Ehrenfelser proved perfect for tonight's dinner. When not shellacking barrels and tidying the tasting room for the upcoming season, Judy is also a delight to guide you through their wines.

Sumac Ridge (www.sumacridge.com) - A staple of the Okanagan for several decades, Sumac Ridge has long been an favourite on everyone's to-sip list. For me, however, it is their world-class sparkling programme that is worth checking out: the Traditional Method Stellar's Jay leads the way in BC bubbles, but the sparkling Gewurztraminer is truly unique.

Okanagan Crush Pad (www.okanagancrushpad.com) - Revolutionary by BC standards, the OCP is a custom crush facility with several different brands. Lead by the magical hands of Michael Bartier, such labels as Haywire, B.S are made in limited amounts and are well-worth a visit to this state-of-the-art facility.

Dirty Laundry (www.dirtylaundry.ca) - Hard to go wrong with a winery that bases its marketing on the legend of a turn-of-the-century brothel, including cleverly disguised naked women on the labels (there are 8 per label - see if you can pick them out!). Clad in all things feathery and lingerie, a visit to Dirty Laundry is a must when in Summerland; the trio of Gewurztraminer (Threadbare, Woo-woo, and Madam) are among the best in Canada, and their Hush Rose an annual treat with their dirty little secret grape we never hear about.

Thornhaven (www.thornhaven.com) - Owners Jack and Jan Fraser have done an excellent job at creating not only award-winning wines but also a cosy tasting facility set high above Lake Okanagan; most important of which was to keep tasting room staple Danny as part of their purchase in 2006. The Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer have just enough residual sugar to tempt the palate, but look for the rare Pinot Meunier as a red complement to slightly spicy Asian cuisine.

8th Generation (www.8thgenerationvineyard.com) - With most producers in their first generation of wine production, 8th Generation refers to 7 generations of German winemaking before the eighth, Bernd Schales, moved to BC. There's no surprise that their Riesling programme is excellent, but look for more unique expressions of Pinot Meunier (a.k.a. Schwartzburgunder) in rose, red, and sparkling forms. Here, the friendly atmosphere is all about the wine; merchandise such as t-shirts, corkscrews, and quirky wine-themed paraphanelia are at a bare minimum.

In total, 30 wines at 6 wineries in 4 hours, all within 15km of my temporary home in Penticton. As far as wines are concerned, Summerland showed itself to be the perfect launching pad for a summer full of great wine.

koushary, cairo, and cabernet franc...

When the Arab Spring took hold of Egyptian hearts in Tahrir Square last year, one thing kept running through my mind: I wonder if Tahrir Koushary is doing good business, or will it suffer from violent clashes? Set on a side-street about a block from its epynomous square, Tahrir Koushary served up the best of Egypt's starchy, spicy, and not very pricy national dish, koushary. For about $1, a styrofoam tub of layered macaroni, rice, lentils, and spiced tomato sauce (topped with a dollop of fried onions) kept my belly full of necessary nourisment...and free of pharaoh's revenge.

Back home in Canada, koushary became a staple for my student budget...and soon became a signature dish passed on to many friends. In fact, the my first attempt at homemade koushary came on an atypical afternoon in Ottawa. With friends visiting from Toronto, the drinks began to flow early and despite my intoxicated state, I managed to throw together a quick koushary to satisfy our rumbling tummies. Although our inebriated state would have enjoyed just about anything, it was my sober roomate who not only raved about how delicious it is, but who also ate more than us!

Although it requires many pots and pans to make, the simplicity of koushary comes in the ease of access to ingredients; only the tomato sauce requires some work at balancing flavours. The key to this sauce is what I consider the holy herbascious trinity of Egyptian dishes: cilantro, dill, and parsely. Furthermore, koushary is a completely vegetarian dish that can be adjusted to meet the dietary needs of vegans (use an egg-free pasta) or omnivores (I often add grilled lamb sausage).

Setting these additions and substitutions aside, here is all you need for a homemade koushary:

Ingredients:

2 cups cooked macaroni		2 cups cooked rice
2 tbsp. olive oil		4 cloves garlic, crushed
½ cup chopped tomatoes		1 tsp. each cumin
½ tsp. cayenne pepper		salt and pepper to taste
2 tbsp. red wine		1 lemon, juiced
¼ cup each chopped cilantro, parsely, dill
3 tbsp. flour		½ cup lentils
1 cup chick peas		1 medium onion, sliced
cooking oil Cooking Method:

1) If macaroni and rice are not already cooked, then prepare as you normally would. NB: lentils and chickpeas should also be pre-soaked if starting with dry ingredients.
2) In small saucepan, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add garlic and fry 1 -2 minutes until golden.
3) Add tomatoes, spices, and red wine. Bring to a boil and add lemon juice and herbs. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer 20 minutes. Stir occasionally.
4) Add 1tbsp. flour to each lentils, chickpeas, and onions. Toss until well-coated with flour.
5) In heavy sauce pan, heat cooking oil over medium-high heat. Add lentils and fry until crispy (2 - 3 minutes). Remove and set aside. Repeat same for chickpeas and onions, frying each separately until crispy.
6) In individual serving bowls or large serving dish (e.g. casserole dish), layer the ingredients in the following order: macaroni, rice, tomato sauce, lentils/chickpeas/onions.

Serve with lemon wedge and tobasco for individual flavour adjusting just as you would at Tahrir Koushary (bi-shatta, min fadlak - spicy please!).

I may be wrong in recalling that wine was not served at Tahrir Koushary (and even if it were, I'd likely have stayed far away from it), I sampled 4 different wines with this dinner. In the end, a Chinon (by Bernard Baudry) worked best. Made from Cabernet Franc in the Loire Valley, a Chinon has strong perfume that stands up to the spices of the koushary, and the inherent green bell pepper notes match perfectly with the herbaceous holy trinity in of the tomato sauce.

If Qatar does not happen, maybe I'll become Cairo's leading sommelier.

pairing for paella...

After going through the Spanish Rice thought process of my previous blog, I opted for the paella path for dinner. The next step in the process was to pick a paella-friendly wine. As discussed in previous entries, more is involved in food and wine matching than just "red with red, white with white." In the case of my paella, I needed to take into consideration the delicate texture of the seafood, the exotic aromas from the saffron, the high acidity of the tomatoes and lemon, and the spicey intensity brought on by the paprika. What is a gringo to do?

One good rule to follow is to choose a wine from the same region as the food; if centuries of tradition have worked for locals, then it should surely work for me. Since paella originates in Valencia, my first instinct is to look for a wine from that region.  Monastrell (a.k.a. Mourvèdre in France or Mataro in the New World) is readily available in our market, but it's full-body, high tannins, and dark fruit character would likely clash with the seafood-based paella. Likewise, the traditional Moscatel de Valencia would be more suited to a dessert, and although widely planted in Valencia, I can't say our stores are abundant with neutral white wines from the Merseguera grape. So much for regional consistency.

Barcelona: Home to the World's Best Chilean Paella

My thoughts then trended toward my first visit to Spain. Naturally, while in Barcelona, I wanted to have an authentically Spanish paella experience. Delicious as the paella was, I was disappointed when, at the end of the meal, I realised we had ended up in a Chilean-themed restaurant.  This memory made me think that if "authentic" paellas can be found in different regions and households, surely different wines would suit the palate as well.

Fortunately for me, I had a few sample bottles open to run another profile taste to see which worked best with paella. On their own, each wine had their own merits and were of good quality for their price. But with paella, here below are the results from my cata de vino con paella:

 

1) Mitchell "Watervale" Riesling, ClareValley, Australia

Australian Rieslings have a distinctly lime flavour. With the paella, this flavour became even more pronounced. The key here is the acidity tempered the acidity of the tomatoes and lemons as well as the spice from the chorizo and paprika, and the light body of the Riesling did not clash with the delicate seafood components.

 

2) Undurraga "Sibaris" Carmenere, Maipo, Chile

Maybe my authentically-Chilean-paella-in-Spain experience precluded me to enjoy this combination, but I was surpised that not only this red but also the least expensive of the flight finished second. The tannins of this particular Carmenere were not to strong, the juicy flavour rested well with the spice, and in the end, the minty character of the Carmenere really came out with the paella, yet without clashing with the other components of the dish.

 

3) Domaine Font de Michelle, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France

With a bit of Mourvèdre in the blend, the Font de Michelle was the closest to regional authenticity of the group. Although the flavours generally worked with the paella, the spicy chorizo and paprika brought out the high alcohol in the wine; an overall mediochre pairing.

 

4) Brocard "1er Cru - Vaucoupin," Chablis, France

Wines of Chablis are generally delicate, and the Brocard is no exception. Beautifully sublime, it became intimidated by the powerful complexity of the paella. Too much going on in the dish, so the wallflower wine cowered in the corner, too afraid to show it's true colours.

 

5) Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand 

Where the Chablis shied against the paella, the extravert character of the Sauvignon Blanc fought the flavours of the paella resulting in a date-gone-wrong. Too bad, considering Kim Crawford is a great choice for seafood; it just did not work with the tomatoes and saffron.

 

So, there you have it. I wonder what the results would be for jambalaya, Spanish Rice, or for your own paella-inspired concoction?